Good Afternoon from Dublin (Feb 24)

Last night when we went to bed in Drogheda (pronounce as if there was no "g") the sky was clear and the stars were out for our viewing for the first time.  This morning and for the entire day it has been cloudy with no breaks and with a persistent threat of rain.  It had rained earlier this morning before we awoke and before school began for our neighbors next to the Scholars Townhouse.  The ground was still wet when we left.

Our first stop was to be at Newgrange.  We plugged the necessary info into our GPS, sat back, and  away we drove.  We passed the area of the Battlefield of the Boyne River where 60,000 forces struggled against each other in 1690.  This was the battle in which William of Orange (Protestant) defeated James II (Catholic) for the rule of Ireland.  James II retreated to France and the seeds for the eventual divisions in Ireland were planted.  We continued on our way and followed directions from the voice within the box.  Well, we travelled some of the narrowest and muddiest roads (previous rain and farm tractors) we had yet faced.  Finally we reached Newgrange only to learn that we were not welcome.  Not quite in those terms but the pleasant lady at the admission office wondered out loud how we had arrived where we did.  We quickly blamed our presence on Garmin.  She told us we had to travel 20 minutes back to a reception center from which location we would be bussed to the site at Newgrange.  Personal vehicles were verboten.  She also indicated that to enter the passage grave and visit the monuments guided by the required tour guide would take an additional hour.  The more she talked, the less time we had.  We decided to move next to the Hill of Slane.  

From a previous posting you should remember the Hill of Tara (cows, sheep and others) where the Druids held their celebrations, crowned their kings and held forth in Ireland for centuries. That was until St. Patrick arrived.  In 433, St. Patrick decided he would build the Easter eve Pascal fire on "The Hill of Slane" which was located in sight of the Hill of Tara.  The Druids under King Langhaire would have their own fires on the Hill of Tara but in seeing the Easter eve Pascal fire the Druids knew there was a "new kid on the block."  In fact, it was not long after that some of the Druid pagans were converted to Christianity and St. Patrick's influence was cemented.  The present ruins include an early 15th century church and a monastery (undated) but which had predated the church.  Again, driving to this site was not easy.  Road sign postings are not good and you are left with the impression that there is an effort to diminish some of these religious sites.  The signage which is provided on the sites seems religious neutral and it seems there is some secularization ongoing in Ireland as well. Nevertheless, each year on Holy Saturday the Pascal Fire is rekindled on the same spot by locals.

Now it was time to travel to Dublin.  It was smooth going all the way and traffic was not a problem.  In arriving at Brownes, now Bentleys, we were greeted by a host of photographers. It didn't take long to learn that they were not there for us.  Bentleys is next to the Anglo Irish Bank and in recent days we have learned the the financial problems in Ireland are as great, if not worse, than ours.  One of the culprits: the Anglo Irish Bank.  Today the fraud Garde (police) were executing a search warrant at the bank and we just happened to be there at the right (?) time.  We unloaded, I moved the car to a parking garage and they were still there.  We fooled around in the room before going for a walk and for dinner and they were still there.  We came back from dinner and some of them were still there.  Before unloading, I jumped out with my camera and started shooting some pics too.  Nobody said anything but if they had I would have told them I was from the Journal Messenger.

For dinner we returned to O'Neills (went there the first night on the crawl) where we both enjoyed a LARGE bowl of Irish Beef Stew cooked in Guinness.  On top of the stew healthy helpings of vegetables were added.  My choices included mashed potatoes, cooked carrots (hello Amy), and cooked peas (again).  Delicious! and filling.  As if the cooking with Guinness wasn't enough we added a pint glass to share.  We staggered home to Bentleys and although we had talked about walking the pub area tonight (Shrove Tuesday) I think we've decided to stay in our room.  I think I will continue working on some of the other pics I've taken so that I might get that much closer to filling in some of the holes in the blog.  Some of the "plugs" may need to be made after we return home.

The Pics (suffering from a thick cloud cover)

Newgrange (the burial chambers) from a distance as we could not enter.

The Hill of Slane with the remains of the church to the left and the monastery remains on the right.

The church with a statue of St. Patrick in the left foreground.

Again, remains of the church.

Another angle and pic of the church.

Looking across from the Hill of Slane to what we believed to be the Hill of Tara.  My telephoto lens and Canon are at home.

Another view of the Hill of Tara (we believe) from the Hill of Slane.

Remnants of the church on the Hill of Slane.

The gentleman is being interviwed by a reporter and we haven't yet identified who he is.  The others just hanging about are the photographers.

Til tomorrow (perhaps even later tonight) ...

Good Morning from Drogheda (Feb 24)

We have yet to use an alarm clock the entire trip and this am we were aided in arising by our proximity to a school.  It was already recess when we started moving.  Behind the school is St. Peters Cathedral.  No church bells this morning although throughout Ireland we have heard the peeling of bells at different times of the day.  Nevertheless, a pic of our room view.

 

The Scholars Townhouse dates to 1867 and is really lovely.  Although just overnight our stay was great!

The outside

The entrance

and now to another full Irish Breakfast (on the house).  Then it will be off to the Boyne River Valley and then Dublin.

One other note.  Is Kiera missing a barrette?  Sheila discovered on of her barrette's in her pocket this am.  If so, we'll be home soon enough.

Til this afternoon ...

Notes from Drogheda (Feb 23)

Without an internet connection at Ballygally Castle I ended up another day behind in the notes. Who in his right mind would have thought a castle would have had an internet connection anyway?  Catch-up is going to be difficult.  For now, at least, I'll share today's experience in our trip from the "castle" to Drogheda with a stop at Downpatrick.

We arrived at the "castle" last night after dark after a day traveling from Derry along the north coast of Northern Ireland to Ballygally.  The experience and the scenery was just outstanding. Our stops included Mussenden Temple, Donluce Castle at Portrush, the Giant's Causeway and Ballycastle (not to be confused with Ballygally Castle).  I'm eager to write about that portion of the trip but it will have to wait.

Today the scenery was less spectacular than it has been for the past several days (you will know what I mean when I post the pics from the last several days) but still beautiful.  It has been hard to find a location on any leg of our trip that does not beg for a picture.

We left Ballygally about 11 am having explored the castle, having eaten a "full Irish breakfast, and having wished the trip was not on its last legs.  The "castle" was a fortified manor house dating back to 1625.  The most notable occupants were Lord James Shaw and his wife, Lady Isobella Shaw. Lord James wanted a son and after time, Lady Isobella delivered a son as he had hoped.  For whatever reason, Lord James felt Lady Isobella could serve no other purpose for him and he locked her in the "tower" room where she was forced to live.  Eventually, as the story goes, she either threw herself from a tower window or was thrown from the window by someone else (Lord James?).  Over time Lady Isobella has appeared to others who have either inhabited or visited the "castle."  It's haunted! (hello Rebbecca)  She is believed to be a friendly ghost (I suspect that will end when she finds Lord James ghost) and an article of the haunting was written in a Belfast newspaper in 1981.  We explored the castle and the tower room where Lady Isobella lived.  We never saw her but ... while Sheila and I were in the room there was an unexplained noise for which we have asked ourselves ...  well, nevermind.

We left Ballygally and it was cloudy, as it has been almost the entire trip. There was a threatening mist but we stayed ahead of it the entire way to Drogheda.  In fact, before reaching Drogheda the sun broke through and it was almost blinding.  We absolutely have no complaints about the weather though.  

We travelled through Belfast and headed south to Downpatrick.  Downpatrick is believed to be the location of St. Patrick's remains and is the home of a cultural center for St. Patrick.  It is located in Northern Ireland and is a relatively short distance from the border with the south. After arriving we visited the church, found the grave marker, and visited the cultural center enjoying an IMax movie produced about St. Patrick in Ireland.  Although the pics show the grave marker, St. Patrick is believed to be buried along with St Brigid and St. Columba beneath the church.  Key word: believed.  Nevertheless the site is a tribute to St. Patrick and his establishment of the church in Ireland.

We left Downpatrick at about the time schools let out for the day.  Kids came from all direction in blue, maroon, and green blazers; both boys and girls.  The boys wore ties.  Our first impression was that the students were from a boarding school but after a while it became clear that they were coming from all over and not just from one school.  They walked and scampered across the town to a bus station where they boarded buses which then took them home.  The buses do not pick them up at school; they walk several blocks to the station and are only then whisked away.  We, of course, were behind a bus for almost the entire distance between Downpatrick and the border with the Republic.  It was fun to watch the kids leaving the buses and they would be dropped at locations that were great distances from homes meaning that they not only had to walk several blocks to board the buses but would then also have another lengthy walk when dropped off.  Interesting dress code with the blazers and ties.  While we were stopped behind the buses it would not be unusual to have someone pass both us and the stopped bus.  I wasn't about to take the chance and it was most enjoyable watching the youngsters.

Arrived at Drogheda and the Scholar's Townhouse where we are staying the night.  A really nice place.  Pics tomorrow but suffice it to say the place at one point had been a Christian Brothers residence and now has 11 rooms set aside for guests.   The restaurant is outstanding and Sheila claims the Ceasar Salad is the best she's ever eaten.  For me: fish and chips (again) with mushy peas (again).  Once more delicious.  All the fish is fresh and is claimed from local waters; perhaps in this case the Irish Sea.  Sheila has commented that we've eaten enough fish in the last 10 days that she might just give up fish for Lent.  Now to 

The Pics

Looking back at Ballygally and the "castle" which is in the dead center.

Looking at the south end of Ballygally from the "castle".

 

The Ballygally Castle.

Another view of the Ballygally Castle.

Sheila trying to engage someone in conversation.

The dining room in the "Castle."  To the right is the working (peat) fireplace.

Sheila about ready to ascend the spiral staircase leading to Lady Isobella's room in the tower where she was confined by Lord James.

Lady Isobella.

Lady Isobella's meagre (Br. spelling since the castle is located in the UK) accommodations in her locked room.

Lady Isobella's view of the world.

Not too regal.

Princess S.  Notice the arms on the chair.  Both dogs; one reclining, the other "at the ready."

This is the hallway at the "castle" leading to our room.  Just what you always wanted to see!

The cemetary at Down Cathedral (St. Patrick's Church), now an Anglican Church, and located about 25 miles north of the border with the Republic.  Even the grave markers are turning orange.

A double click to enlarge will help here.  This is a description on the St. Patrick marker.

Sheila touching the marker for St. Patrick.  His remains are believed to be interred under the cathedral.

Down Cathedral (now Anglican) in Downpatrick, NI, UK.

A view of Downpatrick from St. Patrick's marker.

This is a pic looking across Ballygally Bay and the Irish Sea.  There is a rainbow in the center and, in fact, at one point there were two rainbows.  I was too slow to the camera.  We didn't chase after the rainbow looking for a pot of gold;  this trip has been ours.

Til tomorrow ...

Tarmonbarry and the Shannon River Area (February 14 and 15)

Our arrival in Tarmonbarry really didn't permit a visit to The Lodge (the farm) on Saturday so we delayed the visit to Sunday.  Since I already described the time in Tarmonbarry I'll simply share the pics that were not available then (as we all painfully know).

The first pic is on the road from Tarmonbarry to Roosky as we were traveling north looking for the "reader" and exploring the area where her father grew up.  Pictured is a school just beyond which was an old school, now no longer in use, a picture of which wasn't possible at the time (you wouldn't believe me if I said traffic but ...).  When you see the thatched lines that means slow down as it is frequently a school area. 

This pic was one of those taken at a market in Carrick on Shannon.  Question:  What are Pinks?

The Lodge and a breaking and entering caught on "film."  A shout by Sheila of "I'm home" was intended to ameliorate the effects of the crime?

The acreage that goes down to the Shannon (in the background).  Notice the soggy ground.  In fact it's soggy most everywhere.  The fact is we've experienced marvelous weather with only a "spot" of rain here and there.  We haven't opened the umbrella at all.  It has showered at night but it has had no effect on us.  That notwithstanding, the ground still shows the effects of the winter that preceded us.  The temps have ranged from the low 50s (max) to the upper 20s (min) and once in a while the forecaster will warn of frost on the road.  It has been cloudy and the only sunny day, so far, was the day we travelled from Sligo to Ardara.  It hasn't had a negative effect on us and on enjoying the trip other than perhaps compromising the clarity of some of the attempted landscapes.  That said, it could have rained every day and we still would be having a marvelous time.

Sheila touching the wall that was part of the home.

Our room is on the second floor at the camera's end looking out over the Shannon from our false balcony.

 

Our transportation.

The River Shannon as it passes the hotel.

The Shannon, the Keenan's and some of the development on the Shannon occurring to the rear of their property.

Again, the Shannon and some of the development occurring to the rear of the Keenan's property.

The Keenan's "Boutique Hotel.

The Keenan's Pub and Guesthouse.

Remember to double click on the pics to enlarge for better viewing.

Tomorrow I'll share some additional pics taken on the morning of the 16th as well as those associated with the travel to Clonmacnoise and Galway.  That means I'm only 6 days behind.  Guess we'll need to stay an additional 6 days.

By the way:  "Traffic Calming" is the same as "Reduce Speed Ahead."

In addition to answering the question about "Pinks," what is a "Tailback?"

Til tomorrow ...

Belated Pics from Dublin to Tarmonbarry (February 14)

Sorry I have been so slow in forwarding pics.  Between the "reader" and then lack of internet, I've fallen behind.  I'll try to catch up over the next few days with at least 2 posts a day.

This is a pic of the Ashbourne Marriott.  They treated us very well and we caught up on lost sleep from the flight.  A great start to the trip.

The trip from Ashbourne (Dublin Airport area) began heading north to the Hill of Tara.  This is in the area known as the Boyne Valley.  Some of the "finds" in the area date back 5000 years.  The area is known as the ancient seat of the rulers of Ireland. The Hill was the traditional coronation place for the kings.  

Coincidentally, there was a book store on the periphery.  It made Sheila's day!

The books were in a cold,  damp building and were weathering poorly.  This became a browsing experience only.

On the site is St. Patrick's Church which has now become the visitor's center for the Hill. Unfortunately it was closed but nevertheless we enjoyed access to the Hill.

The Hill was the spiritual and cultural center (pre-Christian) for Ireland. Although it's not that clear in the pics (you'll need to take my word), the grounds were soggy, if not muddy.  Up until the time of our arrival Ireland had experienced considerable rain and snow and everything showed the signs of winter.  In the distance, if you look closely, you will see snow on top of the Wicklow Mountains which are a bit south and west of Dublin.  No snow on the ground here but there were other things to keep eyes facing downward. Cows and sheep have free rein - and take advantage of it.  Well, where they go ... let's just say they go.  I certainly can recognize cow pies but now I am fully aware of sheep droppings.  To make matters worse there was some other, third animal which had the run of the area as well and I still am unable to identify what it was. The remains from that animal suggested the poor beast was having problems.  Suffice it to say, the area was well fertilized.

You can imagine the difficulty I had in navigating the grounds. Certainly someone watching from a distance might have concluded that I was performing some Irish Faery dance on the Hill as I moved around and about.  Before returning to the car we shuffled our shoes on the pavement and dragged them through the taller wet grass and did everything possible to clean our shoes.  We observed one couple remove one of their children's shoes and carry the child to their car.  I can't remember seeing the shoes again after they removed them.

 

The only access to St Patrick's was a bit too narrow for Sheila and me.

Another pic of the church.

Some of the culprits who obviously needed a bath.

Next stop was further to the west, still in the Boyne Valley, along the Boyne River.  The town is Trim and is the site for an Anglo-Norman castle (remains) which was used in the filming of Braveheart, thus the earlier reference to Mel Gibson.  Sheila is standing at the entrance.

In action ...

On the grounds with the river behind some of the ruins.

The castle.

More of the castle.

Sheila peeking through a castle window for Mel Gibson?

Leaving Trim we travelled to Mullingar, Longford, and then to Tarmonbarry.  Next installment: Tarmonbarry.